Dearest Roberta,
And this is India! I think if you look at a globe you will see I am as far as possible from Fremont and it seems even farther. Since this is my first Indian letter and perhaps more detailed than later ones, maybe it would be well to send it on to Mom or type a copy. I'm short of writing paper right now.
I first saw India at sunrise, which of course was the ideal introduction. The low coastline looked hot, mysterious and full of adventures.
In the harbor, the first Indian I saw was a fisherman, bareheaded, in a tattersailed boat with a tall mast. Later boys and men in canoes rowed up to beg for "baksish" -- any sort of gift. For a coin, a cigarette or a tin can, a boy would dive into the stinking water. Satisfied with his gift, he'd salute -- hand to forehead, palm out -- and say, "Salaam sahib" (Good morning, sir!)
It was fascinating to watch Mohammedan boatmen at their prayers. They pray five times daily, facing Mecca, kneeling and touching their foreheads to the deck, utterly undisturbed by the curious American eyes.
Ashore I found every imaginable costume and brown-skinned race. There were turbans, fezzes, sailor hats, black pawnbroker caps, skirts, pantaloons, loincloths, sandals, bare feet, European clothes, military clothes, Arabian costumes, bare heads and naked children.
Sacred cows wandered their busy streets and the Indians (who eat no meat) liked to slap them on the back for good luck. The streetcars, running in pairs, rode along wildly and often I saw men and boys catching them on the fly. Traffic seems to run with the maximum amount of confusion and noise, and yet I never saw an accident. Once the back end of a truck smacked a horse's head, but the beast merely shook his head and trotted on, apparently undamaged. The Mohammedan driver sat calmly as though it were an everyday affair.
The first thing you notice is that no Indian carries anything anywhere but on his head. They tote staggering loads along easily and all have erect postures. Some have the easy gliding walk that Hollywood actresses practice so long (with books on heads) to attain.
Next you are amazed by the outdoor trade. Barbers sit Gandhi-style shaving squatting customers. Sweetmeats and red betel nuts wrapped in buttered mint leaves are sold from baskets heaped to overflowing and mysterious foods are heated over charcoal braziers. Tangerines, oranges and coconuts are plentiful and very good if you're careful where you shop.
Magicians operate on every other corner. I saw King Cobras charmed into swaying dance by native flutes and watched a "fight" between a small snake and a mongoose. The mongoose has a long grey body, beady eyes and lightning movements. He looks like an animated fur neckpiece.
My biggest thrill was riding in a Victoria called a "gharry" in India. We spun along at a good trotting clip through the curving streets and the amazing traffic. The fare is usually about 8 annas. An anna is one/sixteenth of a rupee and a rupee is worth about 30 cents. Of course we Americans paid too much for everything before we learned you are supposed to give about 1/3 of what is asked.
I talked a gharry driver down from 3 rupees to one for a certain trip and he was so pleased with the trading that he laughed and shouted all the way.
We found good dinners in American-style cafes quite reasonable. In a Chinese restaurant, with excellent cooking, I had steak (buffalo), fried onions, chips (French fries), fruit salad and delicious tea for one rupee and 12 annas - about 54 cents. Of course the more exclusive strictly American places are higher.
The tea is wonderful. It is a rich brown and has a full flavor due no doubt to the freshness.
Since this is the dry season, the heat is not damp and though the sun is hot you stay cool in the shade. Nights are really cool. So far I haven't felt a single mosquito, though they certainly exist, and have seen very few flies.
I am struggling with Hindustani and can say a few phrases such as "Aap muyhay sawaj - tay hai?" (Do you understand me?) And for now I will say "Namastay" - Good Night
All my love,
S.
P.S. I feel fine and you needn't worry a bit about me. Everything is new and interesting and if only you were along the trip would be ideal. More as circumstances permit... S
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